Church building

San Giorgio in Braida

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San Giorgio in Braida
San Giorgio in Braida · Wikipedia

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The Church of San Giorgio in Braida is a Catholic place of worship in Verona, located in the Veronetta district, between the Adige River to the south and Borgo Trento to the north. Its origins trace back to Pietro Cadalo, a future antipope, who in 1046 decided to alienate some of his assets to establish a Benedictine monastery under the oversight of the Bishop of Verona. Between the 12th and 13th centuries, the monastery experienced a period of significant economic and spiritual prosperity. Only faint traces remain of the original Romanesque building, likely rebuilt after the devastating earthquake of 1117, such as the base of the bell tower visible on the left wall. Following a period of decline under the Della Scala family, in 1442, the complex was transferred to the Congregation of San Giorgio in Alga, which initiated the construction of the current Renaissance structure. After the congregation was suppressed, in 1669, the complex was sold to the nuns of Santa Maria in Reggio to fund the War of Candia. With the closure of the convent in 1807, the parish of San Giorgio also ceased to exist, and the church became an oratory dependent on Santo Stefano. During the Austrian domination...

The area where the church stands was once called prato dominico (literally, "Meadow of the Treasury") or pradonego, as it was located outside the walls of Verona. The term " braida " comes from the Lombardic words " brei " or " breit," meaning "enclosed meadow." When the monastery was founded, the meadow areas outside the city walls were known as " braide."

The origins of the Church of San Giorgio in Braida date back to the Middle Ages. The earliest documents related to it are preserved in the archives of the San Giorgio parish, the Santo Stefano parish, and the Venetian Nunciature collection at the Vatican Secret Archives. Although some historians suggest that a monastery housing a group of nuns existed here as early as 780, its certain establishment is dated to 1046, when the Veronese noble Pietro Cadalo, then newly elected Bishop of Parma and later antipope, decided to found a Benedictine monastery dedicated to Saint George in his hometown at his own expense. The chosen site was a plot of land in prato domjic, located outside the Roman walls, on the left bank of the Adige River, opposite the cathedral. The land purchase agreement, involving the exchange of certain properties, was drawn up on April 23; the following day, Cadalo allocated additional assets, while retaining their usufruct for his lifetime, for the construction and endowment of the monastery, which was to be placed under the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Verona. In 1052, Emperor Henry III, through the intercession of his wife Agnes of Poitou, granted his personal protection to the monastery.

The years of prosperity and the Romanesque building

Surviving documents indicate that by 1077, the monastery housed a community of priests, a schola e plebe Sancti Georgi, alongside a community of nuns. At that time, the Church of San Giorgio held the status of a pieve, a title it maintained only briefly. In 1112, Bishop Uberto dissolved both communities, entrusting the complex to a new collegiate of priests. This collegiate gained significant prestige, as evidenced by the diplomas and privileges it received in 1123 and 1127 from Bishop Bernardo and in 1132 from Pope Innocent II. Although there is no definitive evidence, it is highly likely that the building at the time was severely damaged during the 1117 Verona earthquake, which caused widespread destruction in the city and province, and that its transfer to the collegiate coincided with a period of intense rebuilding. Little is known about this initial Romanesque complex except for a few remnants, such as part of the bell tower ’s shaft. This shaft is now visible, though it is incorporated into the left side of the church. Another remnant is a section of the outer wall of the former rectory, which is preserved in the 16th-century cloister.

San Giorgio in Braida

The collegiate period was a time of great economic and spiritual prosperity for the monastery. In 1121, Pellegrino served as prior and adopted the Rule of Saint Augustine. He also acquired numerous lands in Valpolicella, particularly in Arbizzano and Novare, and founded a hospital. By the mid-12th century, the priorate passed to Viviano. During this time, the monastery received further privileges from Emperor Frederick Barbarossa in 1155 and from Pope Alexander III in 1164, as well as personal commendations for Viviano. Numerous documents concerning donations pro rimedio anima and depositum contracts in favor of the monastery demonstrate its high reputation and trust among the people of Verona.

In 1177, Gerardo succeeded Viviano as prior, followed by Domenico, another Viviano in 1218, and finally Bernardo. Under Bernardo, a significant event occurred within the monastery’s rectory : the theft of a silver cross containing a relic of the True Cross, typically placed atop a pole on the city’s carroccio. This act led to riots, resulting in Bernardo’s removal and replacement by the illegitimate Diotiguardi. This was not the only notorious event recorded by chroniclers. In 1256, Ezzelino III da Romano massacred Paduan soldiers within the monastery’s vegetable garden, with Rolandino de’ Passaggeri reporting that they “perished by hunger, thirst, cold, hanging, sword, and fire.” Estimates of the victims vary; Rolandino claims 11,000, while the Paduan Pietro Gerardo cites around 2,000, a figure considered more credible given Padua’s population at the time, though likely still exaggerated. Amid these tragic events, a positive note was the establishment of a monastery library ; a 13th-century catalog lists manuscripts by authors including Peter Abelard, Saint Augustine, Saint Ambrose, Bede the Venerable, Saint Bernard of Clairvaux, Isidore of Seville, and Prosper of Aquitaine.

After the Della Scala family assumed power in Verona, they constructed a new city wall that enclosed the monastery. Recognizing its wealth, the Scaligers appointed their relatives, who were often illegitimate children, as canons. Some became abbots, such as Giuseppe della Scala (illegitimate son of Alberto I della Scala ) in 1284 and Aimonte della Scala in 1353. This meddling presence had a detrimental effect on the monastery's spiritual life, resulting in a marked decline. After the Scaliger rule ended, during the brief period of Gian Galeazzo Visconti ’s governance, the monastery was led by Philip of Alençon, Patriarch of Aquileia, as commendatory abbot. Following Verona’s devotion to Venice in 1409, this role passed to Gabriele Condulmer, Bishop of Siena and future Pope Eugene IV. At this time, adherence to the Rule of Saint Augustine ceased.

The canons of San Giorgio in Alga and the Renaissance transformation

The year 1442 marked a turning point for the monastery, as it was transferred to the secular clergy of the Canons Regular of San Giorgio in Alga, a wealthy religious congregation with extensive landholdings in the Verona province. During this period, it was common for religious orders to settle in Verona’s monasteries. For example, in 1443, the Benedictines of Santa Giustina arrived at the Monastery of Santi Nazaro e Celso, and the following year, the Olivetans were assigned to the Church of Santa Maria in Organo. Concurrently with the arrival of the San Giorgio in Alga congregation, Maffeo Contarini, later Patriarch of Venice, was appointed rector. Thanks to this affluent congregation, work began to transform the previous structure into the current Renaissance church, with construction completed around the mid-17th century.

San Giorgio in Braida

Based on archival research by the Veronese scholar Giovanni Battista Biancolini, 1447 was traditionally cited as the start date for the new Renaissance complex. However, a document indicates that on October 4, 1504, Mattia Ugoni, Bishop of Famagusta and former vicar bishop in Verona, laid: “ primarium lapidem quadrangularem … in medio fundamento circuli capelle maioris fabricandae in ecclesia monasterij … manibus propriis astante populi multitudine ” (a square cornerstone in the center of the foundation of the main chapel to be built in the monastery church, with his own hands in the presence of a large crowd). Construction likely began earlier, as scholar Girolamo Murari dalla Corte noted that the building was most active between 1480 and 1531. In any case, the large monastic complex had already been established by 1501, as it is clearly recognizable in the painting Crucifixion by Michele da Verona, created that year and now housed at the Pinacoteca di Brera.

Prospectus of the dome designed in 1832 by Francesco Ronzani and Girolamo Luciolli. Section of the dome designed in 1832 by Francesco Ronzani and Girolamo Luciolli. There is no certainty about the architect in charge, though many consider Francesco da Castello the most plausible candidate. There was almost certainly a significant contribution later in the project by the renowned Michele Sanmicheli, who is credited with near certainty for designing the pseudo- transept (sometimes simply described as the space before the presbytery ) and the dome, which was completed by his cousin Paolo. The facade is hypothesized to be based on an idea by the Veronese painter and architect Paolo Farinati.

The completion dates of the church can be inferred from an inscription above the door connecting the cloister to the church, which records the consecration dates of the altars. It notes that in 1536, the Bishop of Verona Gian Matteo Giberti consecrated three altars, later removed, while seven years later, the Greek Bishop of Chalcis Dionysius blessed the remaining nine, including the main altar. Therefore, it is reasonable to conclude that the church was completed by 1536, though the dome was not yet in place. The presbytery and dome were completed before 1543. The flooring began to be laid in 1557, the same year Sanmicheli conceived the bell tower, similar in design to that of the cathedral. It was later started by Bernardino Brugnoli but never completed.

On December 6, 1668, with the papal brief Agri Dominici curae, Pope Clement XI suppressed the San Giorgio in Alga congregation. Biancolini reports that the remaining assets were sold at public auction to fund the War of Candia against the Ottoman Empire. The monastic complex was thus purchased by the nuns of Santa Maria in Reggio for 10,500 ducats. During the nuns’ tenure, the complex was completed with the construction of the rectory, designed by architect Luigi Trezza, and the completion of the facade. The pipe organ was also restored, and other minor works were carried out.

From the time of Napoleon to the present day

San Giorgio in Braida

The nuns remained at San Giorgio for nearly a century and a half until Napoleon suppressed the convent. In 1807, the parish itself was also dissolved, becoming an oratory dependent on Santo Stefano. In 1837, during the Austrian domination, much of the abandoned and deteriorating monastery was demolished to make way for the new fortifications encircling the city. Specifically, the 15th-century cloister was demolished (with one arm preserved in the eastern wall) and the section facing the Adige.

On March 2, 1874, following a decision by the Holy See, San Giorgio in Braida was reinstated as an independent parish, and on October 28 of the same year, Don Ferdinando Guella was appointed its first parish priest. In 1938, restoration works supervised by Alfredo Barbacci led to the partial reconstruction of the 16th-century cloister.

The origins of the Church of San Giorgio in Braida date back to the Middle Ages. The earliest documents related to it are preserved in the archives of the San Giorgio parish, the Santo Stefano parish, and the Venetian Nunciature collection at the Vatican Secret Archives. Although some historians suggest that a monastery housing a group of nuns existed here as early as 780, its certain establishment is dated to 1046, when the Veronese noble Pietro Cadalo, then newly elected Bishop of Parma and later antipope, decided to found a Benedictine monastery dedicated to Saint George in his hometown at his own expense. The chosen site was a plot of land in prato domjic, located outside the Roman walls, on the left bank of the Adige River, opposite the cathedral. The land purchase agreement, involving the exchange of certain properties, was drawn up on April 23; the following day, Cadalo allocated additional assets, while retaining their usufruct for his lifetime, for the construction and endowment of the monastery, which was to be placed under the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Verona. In 1052, Emperor Henry III, through the intercession of his wife Agnes of Poitou, granted his personal protection to the monastery.

Surviving documents indicate that by 1077, the monastery housed a community of priests, a schola e plebe Sancti Georgi, alongside a community of nuns. At that time, the Church of San Giorgio held the status of a pieve, a title it maintained only briefly. In 1112, Bishop Uberto dissolved both communities, entrusting the complex to a new collegiate of priests. This collegiate gained significant prestige, as evidenced by the diplomas and privileges it received in 1123 and 1127 from Bishop Bernardo and in 1132 from Pope Innocent II. Although there is no definitive evidence, it is highly likely that the building at the time was severely damaged during the 1117 Verona earthquake, which caused widespread destruction in the city and province, and that its transfer to the collegiate coincided with a period of intense rebuilding. Little is known about this initial Romanesque complex except for a few remnants, such as part of the bell tower ’s shaft. This shaft is now visible, though it is incorporated into the left side of the church. Another remnant is a section of the outer wall of the former rectory, which is preserved in the 16th-century cloister.

The collegiate period was a time of great economic and spiritual prosperity for the monastery. In 1121, Pellegrino served as prior and adopted the Rule of Saint Augustine. He also acquired numerous lands in Valpolicella, particularly in Arbizzano and Novare, and founded a hospital. By the mid-12th century, the priorate passed to Viviano. During this time, the monastery received further privileges from Emperor Frederick Barbarossa in 1155 and from Pope Alexander III in 1164, as well as personal commendations for Viviano. Numerous documents concerning donations pro rimedio anima and depositum contracts in favor of the monastery demonstrate its high reputation and trust among the people of Verona.